Traditional Foods of Newfoundland
Jiggs Dinner- June 20- Our first dinner in St John's was JIGGS DINNER-normally served as a melting pot of salted beef, root vegetables and yellow split peas pictured below (Pease Pudding). This is the quintessential meal in the fine province of Newfoundland and Labrador. Also called Sunday or Boiled Dinner, the name Jiggs may have come from an American comic strip called "Bringing up Father". Jiggs was an Irish American immigrant who won the lottery and become a millionaire. Also served was delicious cod. Cod = FISH often served with locally grown savoury. And for dessert, FIGGY DUFF. (A duff is a pudding). This one is made with butter, flour, sugar, baking powder, milk, raisins and a pinch of salt. Figgy Duff was also the name of a popular folk -rock group from the Rock during the 70s and 80s.
Savoury Fish Cakes
2 lb fresh or salt cod fish (boiled)
8 medium boiled potatoes (mashed)
1 medium diced onion
1/4 cup flour
1/4 pack savoury
small piece of salt pork
Cut salt pork into small pieces and fry until brown in frying pan. Remove pork cubes, leaving fat in pan to fry fish cakes. Mix fish, potatoes, onion and savoury together. Shape into fish cakes and coat with flour. Fry on both sides until golden brown.
Newfoundlanders have a unique food language with words such as:
prog- food
puddoch- the stomach
rawny- very thin, bony
switchel- cold tea
vang- fried salt pork
water horse-salt fish just washed from a vat
yaffle- an armful of dried fish
Newfoundland has the most unusual collection of place names, including Famine Point, Bread Island, Butter Cove, Mutton Bay, Cape Onion, Cook's Harbour and Doughfig Point.
Our second hotel, The Sinbad, in Gander, is a well known hangout of local pirates. This pirate is in dire need of a dentist. Perhaps she had too many Peppermint Nobs or Purity Jam Jams.
We were told this is a singing tour, not a culinary tour, but looking at Newfoundland though a food culture lens lets us appreciate the charm of this wonderful place.
Our warm and generous Gander hosts treated us to a traditional Sunday dinner. Newfoundland steak aka bologna was the required protein during the rigorous Screech in ceremony. Long may your big jib draw! ( A good wish for the future)
Brenda and Karen enjoying 3 types of potato- vegetable, beet and mustard. Note the Newfoundland Steak!
We were in Gander during the Summer Solstice. Naturally, since we are CELTS, we acknowledged the Celtic Goddess Aine and the moonlit sky. Thanks to Kevin for cooperating with this endeavour.
No humans were harmed during the ceremony.
June 23. Twillingate. Captain Dave shared his expertise about the history of the cod fishery and disastrous effects of overfishing.
Those of us without sea legs (aka land lubbers ) skipped the iceberg boat tour so were treated to hilariously named wine tastings and the Twillingate museum. Plus Donna got her long awaited lobster roll. And I sampled sweet toutons (bread dough fried in oil or butter) and served with the ever present molasses.
June 24- Terra Nova Provincial Park afforded us precious time to stretch our legs while we learned about the natural history of the area. Here are some species that are fundamental to the Newfoundland kitchen.
Moose Stew
3 lb moose, cut in small pieces
1/4 lb butter
6 cups water
salt and pepper
Brown moose meat in hot butter, add water, salt and pepper. Let simmer, adding chopped onion after about an hour of cooking, cook for another hour. Then cut up and add 2 carrots, 2 parsnips, 1 small turnip, 10 potatoes. Cook for 30 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Make dumplings if you wish.
In Eastport, our kind hosts provided a proper "scoff" or feast. The cod chowder was divine in every sense. Check out the chowder toppings. You won't find scrunchions in many Ontario restaurants.
Delicious cake with Partridge Berry Sauce
At an Irish pub in St. (Pronounced "Sin") John’s, we had seafood chowder, cod tongues enjoyed by Jane, cod au gratin and mussels. Ok some of us had Guinness Only for the iron content of course.
We thought those clever food marketers were onto something with this tea. St. John's has the highest per capita number of bars in North America.
Here are some photos of a bygone era taken at the Cape Spear Lighthouse - the most Eastern point of North America.
A famous traditional meal in Newfoundland is Fish and Brewis made with hard bread sometimes called hard tack (photo above). We did not see this specialty during our trip but it is an example of the way salt meat and salt cod are used. Another traditional meal that we did not see is Seal Flipper pie. Maybe next visit!
Flipper Pie
flippers
pastry
vegetables(cut as for stew)
potatoes (cook separately or with meat)
Soak flippers in cold water with 2 tablespoon baking soda. Fat will turn white. Remove fat. Dredge flippers in salted flour and fry until brown in rendered pork fat. Add a little water and simmer until partly tender. Put in roaster with onion and other desired vegetables, seasoning and about a cup of water. When cooked, top with pastry and bake at 425 degrees F until nicely browned, about 15-20 minutes.
Our final excursion in St. John's was exploring the wonderful Rooms museum. What a marvellous experience this singing tour has been! A heartfelt thanks to Paul, Steve and our capable choir leadership team! Kathryn
